Support

The hub, and at least one sensor. The hub holds everything — the device registry, the floor plan, the measurements — and serves the interface you use.

There is no minimum kit beyond that. Add sensors one at a time, in the order that matters to you.

No. A metered socket goes between the wall and the plug that is already there, and the appliance becomes measurable and switchable. Lamps, kettles and washing machines stay as they are.

The hub runs on your own network and serves its interface from there, so looking at your home does not depend on a connection to us.

What needs the internet is anything that reaches outside the house — and, for now, updates, which are not yet delivered automatically.

Zigbee sensors. We test and recommend specific models, and the configurator prices those, but the protocol is open and other Zigbee devices generally pair.

Bluetooth and local-network devices are not supported yet.

Home Assistant is a large, capable, open platform, and if you enjoy configuring one, you should use it.

DOTRAMA is narrower on purpose. The floor plan is the main screen rather than something you build yourself, Zigbee is inside the hub rather than a dongle you buy separately, and electricity reports come out as a PDF without being assembled. You give up breadth and get something that works out of the box.

If the hub is linked to your account, there will be a way back that does not need our help: you issue a file in your account, copy it to a USB stick and put the stick into the hub. Not yet, though, and we would rather say so here than let you try: a hub can only read a stick if it was made with that ability, and no hub in anybody's hands was. Until then a forgotten panel password on a linked hub shuts the panel standing in your home, and nothing else — your home goes on working from your account, here and in the app. One file resets only the panel's sign-in; another wipes the hub back to factory state. The page «Emergency reset with a USB stick» walks through it. Both put the sign-in back to the serial number and the code from the “Register” label, so keep that label — or a photograph of it.

If the hub was never linked to an account, there is no way back. The file is issued in an account; the hub's own reset sits behind the panel's sign-in, so it is no help to somebody who cannot get past it; and we cannot open it for you: of the registration code we keep only a fingerprint, and a new one is never issued after a hub has shipped. The only thing left is to have the hub's memory card rewritten, which means the hub comes back to us and everything on it is lost. So on a hub you are not going to link, think twice before replacing the sign-in it came with.